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Monday, Nov 08, 2004
The Indian Fashion Season Is In Full Swing!
- Vimla Patil

Vimla Patil was associated with Femina, India’s number one women’s magazine, published by the Times of India Group for 29 years. Femina is Vimla Patil's personal success story. Today, FEMINA is one of the strongest international brands with a vast readership in India and abroad. She initiated the Miss India contest in the mid-sixties for the journal and brought it to its present international stature. Vimla Patil promoted Indian textiles and fashion garments – especially handlooms – for decades by presenting over 4000 fashion shows in India and most countries of the world.
After finishing her long stint with Femina, she built a brand new career for herself as a freelance multi-mediaperson with writing, events, public relations, shows and many more activities in her portfolio!

Vimla Patil will be delighted to answer readers' questions. Please click on the comments page link at the bottom of the article to post your questions for her.

THE NEWS IS – “COLOUR IS KING THIS YEAR”!

One after another, India’s sparkling pantheon of designers is launching seasonal collections in India, Paris and Milan. Everywhere, strong colours and motifs are making their presence felt. Luminescence – with gold and silver patinas – is definitely in! And celebrities supporting social causes are adding that extra zing to the festive fashion scene in India!

Indian Fashion Designers Are Painting The Town Red And Pink!

Vikram Phadnis Celebrates Ten Years As Bollywood’s Ace Designer

Colour stands for the vitality of life! And no designer has proved this adage to be truer than Vikram Phadnis, the glamorous designer for Bollywood megastars like Amitabh Bachchan, Aishwarya Rai, Sushmita Sen, Bipasha Basu, Akshaye Khanna, Bobby Deol and Salman Khan. Vikram’s tenth anniversary show in Mumbai was one blast of colours! With Salman, Amitabh, Saif Ali Khan, Bobby Deol and Priyanka Chopra sitting in the front row and Tabu herself walking the ramp in a gorgeous red bridal ensemble, the show was high voltage. “Vikram is Bollywood’s ace designer,” say his admirers, “He has reworked the look of the biggest names in the glamour industry. Vikram is a stylist par excellence. He knows exactly how the human body moves and his clothes are the best tribute to a handsome man and a beautiful, sensuous woman. He was the preferred designer for many international events like the Daimler Chrysler Mercedes Benz event earlier this year.


Vikarm Phadnis designs glamour wear for 2004-05. Modelled by Upen Patel and girlfriend actress Amrita Arora

The magic of black and red! With sensuous body tattoos! Upen Patel and Amrita Arora for Vikarm Phadnis.

Vikram also designed all the outfits for models for the Kingfisher calendar of 2004. He has been the official designer for the Ddamas diamond collection shows and the designer for most stars and performers at the International Indian Film Awards Show 2004 held in Singapore.

Vikram’s clothes this season are stark – vibrantly colourful or sensuously white. His current portfolio was modelled by the romantic pair of model-actors much in the news this season – actress-model Amrita Arora and boyfriend Upen Patel. In keeping with the ‘social cause’ trend this year, Vikarm’s show was held in aid of the St. Anthony’s Home for the Aged!

Vidhi Singhania’s Kotah Sarees – A Sell-Out!

Vidhi Singhania’s passion for fine Kotah sarees is evident from the exquisite work she has put in for the past decade to rejuvenate the art of weaving in this colourful Rajasthani city. “I was married and suddenly found myself transported from buzzing Mumbai to Kotah, known for its fabulous weaves – started by Maharana Bhimdeo in the 18th century. But the families of traditional weavers were starving without work because there were no buyers for the fine textiles any more! No one had thought of giving a new lease of life to these gossamer-fine fabrics. I loved Kotah weaves and took to this task as a fish takes to water. Today, a decade later, Kotah weaves are once again the chosen fashion statement of the rich and famous. I make sarees, kurtis and Western wear as well as bags and pouches with Kotah embroidery and zariwork and each season, my collection is a sell-out. The weavers are re-settled in their homes and are becoming richer, with access to money, education and a better lifestyle!”


Star actress Neha Dhupia showcases Vidhi Singhania's exquisitely fine Kotah saree

Vidhi – who is recognized as an ace ‘revivalist’ – had her colourful pre-Diwali show in Mumbai in the presence of the glitterati of the city’s society with thundering applause. Her tenderly gold worked sarees and ensembles were more popular than ever! Vidhi too, donated part of her sale money for the education of the weavers’ children. Vidhi’s portfolio was modeled by film star and beauty queen Neha Dhupia.
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Satya Paul Show Their Collection For Breast Cancer Foundation

At Satya Paul's Think Pink "Savera" charity show, Dino Morea, Aishwarya Rai and Ajay Devgan show off a unique collection. Prediction: Pink and polka dots are back!

You name them, and the stars were there – not only seeing models sashaying on the catwalk, but walking the ramp themselves and showcasing the newest collection of Satya Paul! Aishwarya Rai specially took time off her international schedule to wear the theme saree from the collection – a polka-dotted, zari-touched red saree, worn with a sexy halter-neck choli of the same colour! Malaika Arora Khan showed off a multi-crore rupee diamond waist belt worn with a saree and wonder of wonders, Ajay Devgan and Kajol, the reticent couple of Bollywood, also strutted on the ramp showing off Satya Paul ensembles. Everyone who is anyone in the fashion industry was there to cheer the organizers who held the event in aid of breast cancer research at the Tata Memorial Hospital, Mumbai.

Satya Paul believes that women should look feminine and graceful in vibrant colours – hence the return to polka dots and colours like red and pink. The show was aptly named ‘Think Pink’! Top models and glittering stars – Aishwaya Rai, Tanisha, Kajol, Ajay Devgan, Jaya Bachchan, Sanjay Dutt – supported the cause by their presence. Jaya Bachchan donated Rs. one lakh to the cause!

Pria Kataria Puri Predicts ‘The Seductive Black Look’ For 2004-2005 Fashion Season

“Black is the colour of mysterious nights, of the landscape melting into nothingness after sundown, of the unknown,” says Pria Kataria Puri, whose collection this year centres around the colour black, “Black is seductive, mysterious and awakens passions without being inelegant. Black is a popular colour in the West and in India because it lends itself to wonderful embroidery, embellishments or accessories. This year, my collection is somewhat ethnic, somewhat fusion. I have embroidered elegant ‘black diva’ ensembles which hark back to the 60s look. Small buns of hair, bandanas worn with high-placed hairstyles, use of glittering brooches, a mix of class and crass – these add a touch of glamour to my collection this year. I find black an eternally young and sensuous colour. I have proved this in my clothes by presenting black by itself or by teaming it with red!”

No one can agree more with Pria than actress Kareena Kapoor, a strong protagonist of black herself. “Black is very sensual,” she says, “I may sound clichéd but I find black spectacular! A black saree worn with no jewellery, nude skin and a touch of kohl in the eyes make a woman look her sexiest best!”


Pria Kataria Puri's colourful portfolio. Black is sensuous! Red is sizzling! Zari is betwitching!

Black is also the ‘in’ colour for sexy men, says designer Shahid Aamir, whose two-button, single-breasted jackets are a hit this season!

Indian Designers Create A Glamour Storm In Paris And Milan!

Animal prints are a hit! Vikram Phadnis shows how to use them. Model: Amrita Arora.

“Indian fashion has been hot on world catwalks,” says Narendra Ahmed, one of two designers chosen to show their collection in the Design Biennale in Paris in November 2004. The other designer is Rohit Bal, whose saree drapes have created a storm in the fashion world. “Westerners are intrigued with the hundred ways in which ‘the most glamorous unstitched garment in the world’ can be draped to make a woman look fabulous,” say the designers.

Narendra will show a group of 40 ensembles in Paris. My theme is “the journey of a woman’s bindi from Benaras to the Big Apple”. My collection represents urban ambitions and is ethnic with a touch of sportiness. It is a mix of haute couture and prêt. Indian designers have worked hard to create an impact on the international fashion scene. Today, many of us are able to sell our designs in Selfridges as well as Saks. Within a decade, Indian design has come of age and has been accepted internationally!”

Echoes Of International Looks In Indian Design

How Indian design has achieved this miracle of fusing the best of the West with the most exotic of the East is a wonder. Tarun Tahiliani, one of the leading pioneers of couture design in India, says, “Take the American tee shirt for example. Fifty years ago, it started as an undershirt and remained so for many decades. For Americans, comfort is the keyword. So a tee shirt became outerwear and acquired the 80s fashion statement aura. I twisted this concept and added an Indian zing to the tee shirt. My tee shirts are gently frilled, have desi motifs of women and landscapes studded with jewels and are worn with gentle drapes of chiffon or crepe de chine. I think jeweled tee shirts are hip and sexy. They are colourful and typically Indian with the use of zari and stones!”


Tarun Tahiliani's art deco T shirts with Indian figures are studded with shining stones.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee gives the elegant Indian saree a colourful, sweeping international look!

Sabyasachi Mukherjee feels that the Indian saree is the most classic women’s wear item. “They are almost iconic,” he says, “But I have internationalized this ethnic garment making it wearable for any woman anywhere. My sarees can be worn with a jacket, boots or a bright lehenga as the under-petticoat. It can be teamed with a mini-choli or with an old Bengali-style frilled, puff-sleeved blouse or even a mini kurta! It can be draped with a shawl-like look or a Grecian drape look. I think Indian fashion is winning hands down in the world because of its flexibility and adaptability. Also, no country has the expert workmanship of zari, zardosi, embroidery and embellishments like India. Here, each village is a mini museum because we have successfully preserved our handicrafts and are giving a new lease of life to our artisans and craftspersons. Many NGOs (non governmental organizations) are devoted to this work and you can see the results everywhere on international and national catwalks!”

Indian Fashion Is A Winner This Season

The coming festive months will see many leading Indian designers travel Westwards and to the UK, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and many Asian countries to showcase their work. No doubt they will win scintillating laurels!

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