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Footloose in the East Ranjita Biswas Ranjita Biswas is a freelance writer and a social worker. She works for the betterment of the girlchild in north east region. She also voluteers to translate regional writers's works in english.

The neon landscape of the Hong Kong island looked like the gateway to a fairy land. The pinks, blues and greens of the tall spires of the commercial hub of Wanchai and the Central district reminded once again that man-made beauty can be as enticing too. As I sat on the steps of the huge museum complex of Kowloon something else nudged me to wonder why I felt without a care in the world. Then it struck me. Coming from India, and perhaps women from the neighbouring countries would feel the same way, to sit by myself enjoying one of the most romantic sights in the world - Hong Kong by night was something of a novelty. I didn't have to feel as if I was doing something unusual, I didn't have to worry if it was too late at 10 O' clock to walk around alone. This sense of freedom and safety is one of the nicest things about travelling in South East Asia, whether in Singapore, Beijing, even Bangkok with its reputation for flesh trade, for women like us though these are essentially Asian cultures. Optional (Hong Kong island, Kowloon, New Territories and a few outlying islands comprise Hong Kong. The history of modern Hong Kong begins from 1841 when China ceded it to the British after they lost in the Opium War. The New Territories were leased for 99 years. Technically a part of China since in 1997, the place seems indifferent to the change of guard, at least till now).

<-- Central District with Queen's Pier in the middle and Star Ferry on the right

Falling in love with Hong Kong is not difficult. Side by side with the hills and the bay, enhanced by the fantastic architecture of imaginative lighting there is a vibrant air of something going on all the time. James Bond creator Ian Fleming found it one of the most interesting places in the world. My friend did not think so. He found the people cold and unfriendly. My impression was that Hong Kong people are too busy and self-contained to bother about others. Anyway being familiar with James Clavell's novels on Hong Kong like `Tai Pan' and `Noble House' I knew that commerce is what makes the place tick, and all other things take backseat. But the important thing is they let people be. Besides, when you need help or ask directions they are too willing to help. I was, however, not prepared to encounter the language problem. Coming from a country with a similar British colonial past I thought the people would be as familiar with English but Cantonese seemed to rule the day to day life.

Despite its highly westernized lifestyle Hong Kong is more Asian than European and the mixture of the occidental and oriental is delightful. The Dai pai dongs (roadside food stalls) with the dressed ducks and live sea fish are as popular as the McDonald's. Hong Kongites have some of the longest working hours in the world. This goes for women too. Looking after home and children would seem a big problem. A Chinese friend admitted that lots of women would rather not hit the glass ceiling due to family responsibilities. On the other hand, she said, Hong Kong women have the privilege of not working. The husband is expected to take care of the household expenses. Many of the older generation women chose to do that but today younger women prefer otherwise. They have also moved from confining themselves in traditional jobs to computer, and information technology. Eating out is almost a daily ritual. Choc-a-bloc restaurants in the evenings tell their own story. Hong Kong has the world's highest ratio of restaurants and cafes. Even entertaining is done mainly in the restaurants, including family get togethers. Besides time constraints, the other reason could be lack of space. The flats are on an average only 250 sq. ft.

Hong Kong authorities have the world's largest public housing project, accommodating half the population but they have to make do with tiny flats. However, all the flats are air conditioned, and they are a lesson on space use. Unlike the West, but very much as in India, maids are an integral part of many households, specially with young kids. They are invariably from the Philippines, some married and some single. Life is not bad and the relationship with the employer is on an even keel. She can use the phone if she wants; she also eats dinner together with `Sir' and `Madam', though on separate table, watching the TV in the living room. Little things that seem refreshing to people used to hierarchical social set-up.

That first Sunday I got an idea about how many Filipino women work as maids in Hong Kong. They were every where, sitting in groups on the subway to the Star Ferry pier and the vast courtyard of the Museum complex on the Kowloon side. The atmosphere was of a social club with women of all ages chatting, comparing notes, sharing food, reading or calling their homes from the numerous phone booths around. The maids come on a three year contract and are paid a fixed amount as set by the government. Somebody said that the poor girls are hounded out on the holiday because the tiny flats are too crowded as the employers are home. Whether that consideration is behind the Government decision to make Sunday a compulsory day off for the maids, one does not know for the Filipino women it is an opportunity to network with fellow women and reminisce about home. Many Filipino girls also work in the hospitality industry. Miranda works in a pub in the Causeway Bay area. She is pretty, attentive and a good conversationalist. Sometimes her shift ends well past midnight. She is rather surprised when we ask how she manages to go home at these hours. "Why, there are mini buses! They are quite safe and no one bothers me." Sexual harassment or physical assault is quite rare, though there was a case recently when a maid was severely assaulted for burning a shirt while ironing. When the incident came to light, the case caused a public hue and cry and the employer was punished.

<-- Tin Hau Temple

Most of the Hong Kongites are Buddhists but that does not mean that ancient traditions have lost their appeal. Like Shakti worship in India, woman power is in evidence in Hong Kong's favourite deity Tin Hau. She is the ruling goddess of the sea. Hong Kong has a long history of seafaring and Tin Hau temples are found at different locations. The one at Stanley, a picturesque beach and traditional market for Chinese artefacts, is three hundred year old. Fat incense sticks, drums and old people escorted to the pedestal prove that the essential Asian-ness of the island has not disappeared with westernized commercialism. A word of caution. It is best to leave behind ideas about Hong Kong a la Richard Mason (The World of Suzie Wong). The world has moved, so has Hong Kong.

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