Monday, May 29, 2000
Istanbul, The Meeting Of Two Continents
Anil ChopraAnil is a pilot. An enthusiastic traveler, who would have loved to be a member of the National Geographic Society. Takes on the pen once in a while. More than all, he is a devoted husband, and being a father of two teenage daughters, always carries a loaded double barrel gun.
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 The 2700 years old city of Istanbul is the meeting point of the two great continents Asia and Europe. The narrow Bosphorus strait, which divides Europe and Asia, also separates the European core of Istanbul from its Asian suburbs. This largest city of Turkey (Population 9.5 million) is bordered to the north by Black sea and to the south by Marmara Sea, which, further south, merges with the waters of the Mediterranean. Early history of the city dates back to 660 BC when it was called Byzantion. The Roman Emperor Constantine rebuilt the city in 325 A.D. and declared it the second capital of the Roman Empire. From now on it came to be known as Constantinopolis, the later day Constantinople. The period saw construction of churches and typical Roman buildings. Mehmet II conquered the city in 1453 and made it jewel of the Ottoman Empire. From now on the city started getting the Turkish character with the new mosques, palaces of the Sultans, and the famous Muslim bazaars. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk founded the modern Turkish Republic in 1923, and moved the Capital to the more central Ankara. Today this elegant city of Istanbul has modern European infrastructure laced with great palaces, domed mosques, tall minarets, and ancient churches and hippodromes. Like many contemporary cities, Istanbul struggles with the problems of rapid growth, including overcrowding and traffic jams. Although no more a capital, Istanbul is the largest city and seaport, as well as the nation's business and cultural center. Having been a member of NATO for decades, and now vying for EU membership, all efforts are being made to maintain high standards.
 There are two types of visitors to the city. The tourist who wants to explore the historical mysteries of this ancient city, and the merchant who wants to place orders for the relatively cheap imitations of western clothes and jewellery or pick up oriental dry fruits and spices without actually going to Iran or India. The city is geared up to offer a treat to both. A tourist requires 4 days to sight see at a leisurely pace. There are many 'must see' places. The 16th-century Sulatanahmet (Blue) mosque with its unique six surrounding minarets is a landmark structure. This fine work of marble and precious stones was also the traditional starting point for pilgrimage to Mecca. Hagia Sophia is the most renowned Byzantine cathedral, which was built back in the 3rd century. Over looking the Sea with an intricate maze of domed shaped pavilions is the resplendent Topkapi Palace. Topkapi Palace is perhaps best known for the riceless jewels housed in its treasury, which include the famous Topkapi dagger and the spoonmaker's diamond among other crown jewels and artifacts. The Suleymaniye Mosque complex and the Faith Mosque Complex are some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture.
 A boat trip around the Bosphorus is a must. One could take the State run Big Boat, which ferries passengers to different parts of the strait for a four hour round trip. Alternatively and more interestingly, one could hire a private boat for the family or the group. If you are master at perseverance and do not give that capitalist western look, a boat could be under your direct command for four to five hours for just 80-100 USD. Dominating the strait is the Dolmabahce (Imperial gardens) palace on the European shores of Bosphorous. This was once the launching point for the ceremonial departures of the Ottoman naval fleets. The rooms are decorated with rare porcelain artifacts and crystal chandeliers. The two suspension bridges across the strait connect the two continents, and are engineering marvels. Rumelihisari Castle is the most important stop. Visit to this open-air museum is also a mini exercise in mountain climbing. Other than the Bosporous one could also make a day's boat excursion to the Princes Islands in the Marmara Sea. Istanbul's famous covered bazaars are spread over many kilometers of winding alleys. They are as much a sightseer's delight as a bargain hunters paradise. Beware the price may be over-stated as much as 4-5 times. Here one could pickup a typical Turkish souvenir, Persian carpets, Iranian glassware, oriental spices to a locally made Cartier designed, 14 Carat gold necklace. Does that remind one of the ancient great trade route? The Turkish Helva and other rich sweets are for those with a sweet tooth.
 No trip to Istanbul can be complete without an evening Belly Dance. The town is replete with he so-called 'Musical and cultural' Halls. With dinner and half a bottle of champagne thrown in they are poor imitations of the 'Lido' in Paris. As a child one was often reminded that 'You activate 42 muscles to frown and just 4 muscles to smile', but the muscle bending gyrations of the Belly dancers of this region, which is not from (Helen of) Troy could launch a thousand smiles. From as low as 50 USD to a princely 100 USD per person one could feast, both his eyes and the belly, to his heart's content.
The best time to visit is Jun-Sep. It is still somewhat cool in May but one could get a pre-season cheaper package. One gets charter packages from most European cities. A 4-night 3 star hotel package (Bed and Breakfast) could cost 300 USD per person from London including the to and fro air fare. Charters from Moscow could be as low as 185 USD. There are less expensive coach trips from many French and German cities. A package tour certainly works out a much cheaper option. In-city travel is convenient, by taxis and trams. The Turkish Lira is most confusing and at little over 600,000 to a US Dollar one could run out of breath counting the zeros while paying even for a Burger or a Banana.
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