Monday, Mar 13, 2006
A Century of History on the Catwalks at Paris Show
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Models have been showing off designer clothes for over a century, but with time the shows have moved from the intimacy of a designer's salon to the huge, costly spectacles beamed around the world today.
 A model for Chanel
© AFP/File Francois Guillot"Showtime" at the Paris city fashion museum Galliera brings together more than 300 items including rare photographs and film footage dating back to the turn of the 20th century to illustrate the history of the catwalks.
"We've never had a major exhibition about the fashion shows, and I thought to myself how is this possible as it's such an important part of the fashion world," curator Anne Zazzo told AFP.
It's hard to pinpoint exactly when the first fashion shows were held, but an illustrated book dating from 1885 called "Art et la Mode" shows four women modelling clothes in the salon of a designer, one Mr Le Roy.
For modesty's sake, the models had to wear wrist-length black or white underclothes if they were showing off dresses with short arms.
And a black and white photograph from the time shows just how unimportant the model was -- the dress has been pictured from the neck down.
Hard to imagine that happening to today's supermodels such as Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, who with the clothes are now the stars of the show.
In fact, during the first proper catwalk shows photographers were banned from attending and had to content themselves with snapping the models as they walked and posed in organised shoots.
Even as early as 1913, designers were sending the elite personal invitations, although the shows were often still very relaxed with visitors coming and going, even bringing their dogs along. A far cry from today's frenzied atmosphere.
 A model for Viktor and Rolf
© AFP/File Pierre VerdyIt did not take long though, for designers to realise the huge marketing potential of allowing photographers into the shows, as well as inviting more people. By 1948, Christian Dior was already drawing up detailed seating plans for a show to be seen by 700 people.
Another section of the show puts the spotlight on what happens back stage. A series of photographs shows the transformation as a model is coiffed and then made up for a Dior parade, all in less then 45 minutes.
Again worlds away from the early days, when models had to buy their own make-up and stockings.
On the other side of the room hang hand-written wall placards urging the models to "Think Audrey Hepburn" and "Stay alive and energetic" for a Viktor and Rolf's autumn-winter collection for 2006.
Dior's message is a bit more enigmatic. "Feel the emotion of the space," it intones.
Zazzo has also brought together some of the more flamboyant examples of haute couture over the past decades: there's a Jean Paul Gaultier dress with pointed breasts, Vivienne Westwood's impossibly high-heeled shoes, Issy Miyake's noodle hat.
 A Veronique Leroy creation for Leonard
© AFP/File Pierre Verdy"I wanted to show the dream, but also to show the things which are in the shops, which demand less courage to be worn," she said.
Moving into the next section of the show, the visitor is assailed by the sights and sounds of past fashion weeks, with Zazzo keen to illustrate the relationship between the clothes and sound and movement.
So there's a startling green and orange dress by Frederic Molenac with loudspeakers incorporated in the high collar and skirt from his 2002/2203 autumn-winter collection.
And the sombre, regimented chess board by Alexander McQueen for his spring/summer 2005 collection where models were moved around by an off-stage commentator.
Moving through the room, visitors themselves become part of the catwalk, ending up in front of a huge picture of the photographers' scrum complete with flashing lights and the whirl of camera shutters.
Throughout the exhibition, which has already attracted wide interest since it opened on March 4, are videos taken among the Christian Lacroix haute couture show for his spring/summer collection 2006.
There is the melee outside as people queue to get in, different shots of the catwalk around the room, and even a bird's eye view from the designer himself persuaded to wear a mini camera on his lapel.
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