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Dharwad

About 75 km from Belgaum, is the District Headquarters of Dharwad. Dharwad was the cpaital of the Bahmanis Kingdom before the nineth ruler of the Bahmani kingdom, Ahmad Shah I, shifted his capital from Gulbarga to Bidar in 1424. Calm and peaceful, this town still retains its old world charm. Dotting the town, are a number of churches and temples. Some of the churches worth a visit are, the All Saints Church, Basel Mission Church and the Roman Catholic Church. The temples of Hamuman, Dattatreya, Durgadevi, Dyavamma and Panduranga are also worth a visit. A few kilometres away from Dharwad is Lakkundi, a town with some exquisite temples in the Kalyani and Chalukyan styles.

How To Get There
By Air: The nearest airport is Belgaum (140 km)
By Rail: Dharwad is an important railhead on the Bangalore-Pune line.
By Road: Dharwad is connected with Bangalore (427 km), Goa (140 km) and Belgaum (140 km).
Where To Stay
Vyshali Lodge, Vijaya Road
PWD Rest House

Bijapur

The District Headquarters of Bijapur, is famous for the Gol Gumbaz,the glorious tomb of Mohammed Adil Shah, and the second largest dome, unsupported by pillars, in the world. Even a pin drop can be heard distinctly from across a space of 38 km, in the Whispering Gallery. Nearby the Nagar Khana, which resembles the Gol Gumbaz, is a museum today. It houses some of the most exquisite Chinese porcelain, armoury, parchments, carpets and paintings.

On the western outskirts of the city, is the mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah II, built in the 17th century, Ibrahim Roza, which is said to have inspired the Taj Mahal and chosen by Emperor Aurangzeb as his residence. Its architect, Malik Sandal declared, "At the beauty of this structure, paradise stood amazed". Panels embellished with crosses, lotuses and wheels signify the religious tolerance of the Adil Shahi dynasty

Embracing 1,16,300 sq metres is the Jama Masjid, one of the finest mosques in India, crowned by a large onion dome. The invading Aurangzeb added a beautiful entrance and painted the floor with 2, 250 squares, one for each worshipper. The Masjid's sacred alcove has the Quran intricately painted on it with letters of gold.

Malik-e-Maidan, the largest medieval cannon in the world, measures 14 feet in length, and 55 tons in weight. Perched atop a fort wall, the cannon was hauled from war-ravaged Purandar in Maharashtra with the help of 400 bullocks, 10 elephants and several men. The cannon is actually the jaws and throat of a lion devouring elephants. To avoid the deafening explosion, after firing from the cannon, the gunner would submerge himself in a tank of water on the platform. the gunmetal is cool even in the heat. It is said that if one touches the gunmetal and makes a wish, it will be fulfilled. The Mehtar Mahal, with its intricately filigreed balconies and slender minarets, was built for the sweepers of the royal house!!!

Other places of interest are the Ara-killa, Anand Mahal, Bara Kaman, Gagan Mahal and Jahaz Mahal.

When To Visit

October to February.
How To Get There
By Air: The nearest airport is Belgaum (205 km)
By Rail: Bijapur is connected with Bangalore and Mumbai.
By Road: Bijapur is connected with Bangalore (613 km, via Hubli), Mumbai (486 km), Hampi (254 km) and Belgaum (205 km).
Where To Stay
Hotel Adilshahi Main (KSTDC), Hotel Adilshahi Annexe, Traveller's Lodge, KSRTC Guest House, APMC Guest House (Indi Road), Inspection Bungalow (Station Road), Tourist Bungalow, Hotel Samrat and Hotel Lalit Mahal are some of the accomodations available.

Gulbarga

Gulbarga is a unique synthesis of two cultures. The fort of Gulbarga is an amazing structure, with 15 towers and 26 guns. Inside the fort, is the Jama Masjid, fashioned on the lines of the famous mosque of Cardova in Spain. The Khwaja Bande Nawaz is a tomb, which is the venue of the annual urs, attended by nearly one hundred thousand people. The Dargah Library houses almost 10,000 books in Urdu, Persian and Arabic. Also worth seeing are Sultan Hasan's Tomb, the tomb of Ghias-ud-Din, and the Haft Gumbaz.

How To Get There
By Air: The nearest airport is Hyderabad (220 km).
By Rail: Gulbarga is connected with Bangalore, Mumbai and Hyderabad.
By Road: Gulbarga is connected with Bangalore (600 km), Hyderabad (220 km), Bijapur (150 km) and Bidar (110 km).
Where To Stay
Vadiraja Lodge (Tel : 08472-21140)
Sanman Lodge (Tel : 08472-22801)
Hotel Mayura Bahmani (Tel : 08472-20644)

Bidar

In the northern most part of Karnataka lies Bidar - a tiny town steeped in history. As you enter the town, the Bidar Fort welcomes you with five darwazas (gates) that lead into a little settlement, nestling within the ramparts.The Rangin Mahal, once a royal residence, has elaborately carved wooden pillars and Persian art work. The Solah Kambh Masjid is the oldest Muslim building in Bidar, and one of the largest in India. Other attractions of Bidar are the Gagan Mahal, the Diwan-e-Am, the Royal Pavilion, the Takhat Mahal, and the Bahamani Tombs at Ashtur. Right at the heart of Bidar, stands the Chaubara, a 71 foot tower. One can get a splendid view from the top of this tower.

How To Get There
By Air: The nearest airport is Hyderabad (136 km)
By Rail: Bidar is connected with Bangalore, Mumbai and Hyderabad.
By Road: Bidar is connected with Bangalore (669 km), Hyderabad (136 km), Bijapur (246 km) and Gulbarga (110 km)
Where To Stay
Hotel Mayura Barid Shahi (Tel : 08482-6571)
Hotel Kaveri (Tel : 08482-7258)
Hotel Kailash (Tel : 08482-7727)

North Karnataka

Historic. Majestic. With an austere beauty, all its own. Brave its harsh climate, and its forbidding landscape, and you'll discover a land of myriad surprises - musical pillars, stone dancers, elephant stables, mosques, monuments, forts, ruins ..... North Karnataka has the unique privilege of housing two World Heritage Centres - Hampi and Pattadakal. Wherever you go in North Karnataka, you'll find yourself within touching distance of history.

The Ruins of Hampi

"Vijayanagara is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen a place like it ..." so eulogised Abdul Razaq, a Muslim envoy, who visited Hampi. 343 km from Bangalore and 74 km from Bellary, Hampi - a world heritage centre - is the most beautiful and evocative of all the ruins in Karnataka. The Tungabhadra river flows through Hampi, on the banks of which, it is said, the Goddess Hampi (Parvati) attained Lord Shiva. This city was praised by historians like, Nuniz and Paes, as being greater than Rome, its palaces plated with jewel-encrusted gold, simply the 'best provided city in the world'.

The erstwhile capital of the Vijayanagar kingdom, Hampi is full of delightful surprises. In the 13th century, the markets here overflowed with luxuriant silks, brilliant diamonds, rubies and emeralds. Today, the Market Place with its ancient, roofless stalls is a riot of colour on festive nights, when the Virupaksha Temple is all ablaze wit

The King's Balance, where kings were weighed against grain, gold or money, which was subsequently distributed to the poor, the Queen's Bath, open to the sky, surrounded by a moat, with its arched corridors, projecting balconies and lotus-shaped fountains, that once spouted perfumed water, and the fascinating two storeyed Lotus Mahal, adorned with recessed archways, are some of the major attractions of Hampi. The exquisite Lotus Mahal in the Womens' Enclosure was inspired by the beauty of woman. A little away, stands the crumbling watch tower, once guarded by eunuchs, from where the royal ladies could watch the festivities taking place. The flat platform of the Mahanavami Dibba proved an excellent vantage point for the royalty, from where they could feast their eyes on a city come to life during the nine, vibrant nights of Dussehra.

The Virupaksha Temple rises majestically, at the western end of a 700 m long street, that was once the famous Hampi bazaar. Nearby is the 6.7 m tall monolith of Ugra Narasimha or Lakshmi Narasimha. But by far the most amazing monument in Hampi, is the Vittala Temple Complex, with its 56 musical pillars. Legend has it, Lord Vishnu found it too grand to live in and thus, returned to his own 'humble home'.To the east of the complex is the famous Stone Chariot, with stone wheels, that actually rotates ! The Vijayanagar festival, organised by the Government of Karnataka, recreates the grandeur of the bygone era. Six km from Hospet is the 49 m high, 2 km long Tungabhadra Dam which offers an incredible panorama of the surrounding land.
Hampi, even though in ruins, remains as alluring today, as it was centuries ago.

When to Visit
The ideal time to visit Hampi, is from October to March.
How To Get There
By Air : The nearest airport is Bellary (74 km). Other convenient airports are Belgaum (190 km) and Bangalore (353 km).
By Rail : Hospet (13 km) is the nearest railhead. Hospet is linked by rail with Bangalore, Bijapur and Hubli.
By Road : Hampi is 353 km from Bangalore, and 13 km from Hospet. Buses ply regularly to Hospet from Bangalore.
Where To Stay
Hampi Power Guest House.
Accomodation is also available at the Tungabhadra Dam - Vaikuntha Guest House, Inspection Bungalow. At Hospet - Hotel Mayura Vijayanagar (KSTDC). At Kamalapura - PWD Inspection Bungalow.

Aihole and Pattadakal

Aihole

Famous as the 'Cradle of Indian Architecture', Aihole has over a hundred temples, scattered around the village. The oldest temple here is, perhaps, the Lad Khan temple dating back to the 5th century. This temple was originally a royal assembly hall and marriage mandapa and was chosen as the abode of a Muslim prince, Lad Khan.

The Durga (Fort) Temple is notable for its semi-circular apse, elevated plinth, and the gallery that encircles the sanctum. Images of Chamundi Devi trampling the buffalo demon, Narasimha and Shiva abound here. There are fifty temples within the fort walls and fifty outside - fine examples of Hoysala, Buddhist, Jain, Dravida, Nagara and Rekhanagara styles.

The Hutchimalli Temple has a sculpture of Lord Vishnu sitting atop a cobra. The Ravana Phadi Cave dating back to the sixth century, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is cut from a large wedge of sandstone. Shiva in several forms is carved both inside and outside the cave. Other remarkable sites are the Konta Temple Complex of four temples, the Uma Maheswari Temple which houses a beautifully carved Brahma sitting on a lotus, the austere Jain Meguti Temple and the two-storeyed Buddhist Temple. Within the Buddhist shrine, is a tranquilly smiling Buddha on the ceiling, with the Bodhi Tree sprouting from his head.

How To Get There
By Rail : The nearest railhead is Bagalkot, 46 km from Bijapur.
By Road : Aihole is connected by road with Pattadakal (19 km), Badami (46 km), and Bangalore (483 km).
When To Visit
The best time to visit is from October to February. Summers tend to be very hot.
Where To Stay
Tourist Lodges
Karnataka Department of Tourism
Tel: 41 Amingad exchange
Tourist Rest House, Aihole (Tel : 08352-41)

Pattadakal

Situated on the left bank of the Malaprabha river, Pattadakal - the last Chalukyan capital, and now, a world heritage centre - has ten major temples, representing early Chalukyan architecture. The biggest temple here, dedicated to Virupaksha, has a massive gateway, and several inscriptions. In front of the temple is a majestic 2.6 m high Nandi, in deep green stone, covered in a floral red cape.

Exquisitely chiselled, the Papanatha, Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna temples are prime specimens of early Chalukyan sculptural art. The earliest experiment here is a brick-pillared mandapa (3rd-4th century) in front of the Sangameswara Temple. The latest is a Jain Temple (9th century AD) from the Rashtrakuta period. The Rekhanagara and Prasada styles can be seen together with the Dravida Vimana style. The stone used here is sandstone with a beautiful pink tinge, that almost catches fire as it were, as the sun sets. Scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Bhagvata Purana are depicted in these temples.

How To Get There
By Rail : The nearest railhead is Badami (29 km).
By Road : Pattadakal is connected by road with Badami (29 km), Bijapur (17 km) and Aihole (17 km).

When To Visit
Anytime from October to February.

Where To Stay
It is advisable to stay in Badami (29 km) or Bijapur (17 km).

Credits

• This article is reproduced courtsey India Perspective
• The author, Dr. Vasant Kumar Bawa, is a freelance writer.